How to lay artificial grass
Two ways to do it, depending on what is under your feet. Pick the one that matches your garden and work through the steps in order.
Step 1
Measure and order
Measure the longest and widest points of the area. Order in as few rolls as possible, from one batch, so the colour matches across every join.
Step 2
Dig out 50 to 75mm
Strip the turf and dig down 50 to 75mm across the whole area. On heavy clay, or anywhere that puddles, go to 75mm so there is room for a deeper sub-base.
Step 3
Set your edges
Fix treated timber battens or plastic edging around the perimeter, level with the finished height. This is what you fix the grass to later, so get it straight and solid now.
Step 4
Lay weed membrane
Roll weed control fabric over the soil, overlapping each run by 100mm. Pin it down. This stops anything growing up through the base.
Step 5
Sub-base and compact
Spread 40 to 50mm of MOT Type 1 and compact it in two passes with a vibrating plate. It should feel solid underfoot with no give. This layer is what stops the lawn sinking.
Step 6
Sharp sand blinding
Add 20 to 25mm of sharp sand, rake level and compact again. Check with a spirit level or a straight edge. Every dip you leave now will show through the grass.
Step 7
Roll out and settle
Roll the grass out and leave it at least two hours in the sun to relax. Cold grass holds creases from the roll and will not sit flat if you fix it straight away.
Step 8
Trim to shape
Cut from the BACK with a sharp blade, a little oversize, then trim to the edge in small passes. Change blades often. Cutting from the front catches the fibres.
Step 9
Join the seams
Lay joining tape shiny side down under the seam, apply adhesive, and press both edges into it with the pile running the same way. Keep a 2 to 3mm gap so the join does not peak.
Step 10
Fix the perimeter
Fix the edges into the timber or plastic edging with galvanised U-pegs every 200 to 300mm, or adhesive onto a hard edge. Keep pegs just below the pile so they disappear.
Step 11
Brush and infill
Brush the pile up against the direction it lays with a stiff broom. Kiln-dried sand infill is optional but helps the pile stand and adds weight in exposed gardens.
Step 1
Measure and order
Measure the longest and widest points. Order in as few rolls as possible, from one batch, so the colour matches across every join.
Step 2
Clean the surface
Sweep the concrete or slabs completely clean and let them dry. Adhesive will not hold on dust, moss or algae. Treat and rinse anything green, then allow it to dry fully.
Check it is sound
Fill any holes or deep cracks and grind off high spots. Grass is thin, so every lump and hollow underneath will read through the surface once it is down.
Step 4
Check the water runs off
Pour a bucket of water across the area. If it pools rather than running off, drill 16mm drainage holes on a 1m grid before you go any further, or the lawn will hold water.
Step 5
Underlay, if you want it
A foam shockpad is optional on a hard base but worth it underfoot, and it evens out minor imperfections. Butt the sheets together and tape the joins. Skip it and the surface will feel hard.
Step 6
Roll out and settle
Roll the grass out and leave it at least two hours in the sun to relax so the creases drop out before you fix anything down.
Step 7
Trim to shape
Cut from the BACK with a sharp blade, slightly oversize, then trim in to the edge in small passes. Leave a 5mm gap at walls so the grass can move in heat.
Step 8
Join the seams
Joining tape and adhesive under every seam, pile running the same way on both pieces, with a 2 to 3mm gap between the edges so the join stays flat.
Step 9
Glue the perimeter
You cannot peg into concrete, so the edges are glued. Run a 100mm band of outdoor grass adhesive around the whole perimeter and around any obstacle, and weight it until cured.
Step 10
Brush it up
Brush the pile up against the way it lays. Leave the adhesive to cure fully, usually 24 hours, before letting anyone walk on it.


